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Method How to make 100% basic whey protein at home

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Alright guys I'm going to show you how to make whey protein at home that's cheaper than commercial whey

Why make whey at home?
to answer that idk you could but it at a store online but it will have sugars artificial chemicals and more expensive but it's also fast to get but here's how to make it and at home for those who are interested


ingredients and equipment needed:
Milk: you will need milk because its the main source of whey you can use regular store milk or skim milk it doesn't matter

Vinegar or lemon juice: these will be used to curdle the milk

[Optional flavorings] vanilla extract,coca powder or a natural sweetener like stevia or honey

Equipment
large pot: for heating the milk yeah and make sure it's non stick


Thermocouple Thermometer: to monitor the milk temperature
1000006364.jpg
link

Cheesecloth or fine strainer: for straining the curds from the whey

food processor or blender: This makes it easier to dried whey into powder

Dehydrator or an oven: to dry the liquid whey

Step 1:
Heat the milk
Pour the amount you want into the pot start with about 1 gallon of milk
heat the milk slowly,stirring frequently until it reaches about 180°F (82°C) use the thermometer for accuracy


Step 2:

Curdle the milk
Once the milk reaches the desired temperature, add vinegar or lemon juice gradually use about 1/4 cup for one gallon of milk
Then stir the mix gently you will notice the milk separating into curds of whey


Step 3:
Separate the whey
once it's fully curdled,turn off the heat and let it sit for a few minutes
then line a strainer with Cheesecloth and place it over a large bowl

Then pour the curdled mixture into the strainer allowing the liquid whey to collect in the bowl below and the curds will remain in the Cheesecloth

Step 4:
Dry the whey
Pour the liquid whey into onto Dehydrator trays or shallow baking dishes if using an oven set it to the lowest temperature so around (around 150°F or 65°C) it can take Serval hours to fully dehydrate the whey
Dehydrate until the liquid is evaporated completely leaving behind dry whey solids
1000006363.jpg

Step 5:
Powder the whey
once fully dried break the soild whey into pieces
Process the pieces in a blender or food processor until you a get a good consistency

you can now add the flavorings mentioned above get a bowl Pour the whey into it then add the flavoring and stir

making whey at home will cost around $5-$10 per batch

WARNING
It will taste different from commercial brands
And this whey will be slightly lower quality than commercial whey because the use a more efficient filtering process but they also add
(Eh hem added sugars) but commercial whey has a higher protein yield per serving

note: I deleted it the first time this is my second time also keep it in a steel container
1000006359.jpg
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Welcome back guy's it's athlean X and today I'll be telling you on why not making your protein at home is killing your gains
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
Also my apologies for the weird coloring of the words idk what happened
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
tons of spelling mistakes after re reading it
 
List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section


NaOH - also called lye


Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone


Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durring baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have a two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth.


Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.


List of equipment : A glass eyedropper


Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).


A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)


A glass quart jar


Sharp scissors


Clean rubber gloves


Coffee filters


A measuring cup


Measuring spoons


Preparing your Lab:


Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.


Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.


Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.


Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine: Please discuss this on the neonjoint forum


5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.


6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it -is- soluble in ether).


7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.


8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.


9. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!


10. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.


11. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.


If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.


First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)


Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus.


Items needed: Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)


Coffee filters (or filter paper)


Something that measures ml and grams


A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)


iodine


Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)


Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)


Lye


*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)


Making Red Phosphorus: The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is a tedious process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks, but who cares?


Making Hydroiodic Acid: This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorus-water mixture.


Now, Making Methamphetamine: To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . With the ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser is attached to the flask, and the mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is needed for best yields and highest octane numbers on the product. While it is cooking, the mixture is quite red and messy looking from the red phosphorus floating around in it.When one day of boiling under reflux is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it is diluted with an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get out all the red phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution should look a golden color. A red color may indicate that all the red phosphorus is not yet out. If so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch. If filtering does not remove the red color, there may be iodine floating around the solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.The next step in processing the batch is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and added to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell or use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now obtained, the next step you can do is to form the crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls of toluene is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual. If the chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene extract will be clear to pale yellow. If this is the case, the product is sufficiently pure to make nice white crystals just by bubbling dry HCl gas through the toluene extract. If the toluene extract is darker colored, a distillation is
called for to get pure meth free base. The yield of pure methamphetamine hydrochloride should be from 100 to 110 grams







breaking-bad-walter.gif
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section


NaOH - also called lye


Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone


Ephedrine The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will f**k up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell durring baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have a two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth.


Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.


List of equipment : A glass eyedropper


Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).


A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)


A glass quart jar


Sharp scissors


Clean rubber gloves


Coffee filters


A measuring cup


Measuring spoons


Preparing your Lab:


Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.


Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.


Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable.


Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine: Please discuss this on the neonjoint forum


5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.


6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it -is- soluble in ether).


7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear.


8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.


9. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!


10. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.


11. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.


If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.


First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)


Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus.


Items needed: Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)


Coffee filters (or filter paper)


Something that measures ml and grams


A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)


iodine


Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)


Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)


Lye


*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)


Making Red Phosphorus: The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. Naturally, it is a tedious process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks, but who cares?


Making Hydroiodic Acid: This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorus-water mixture.


Now, Making Methamphetamine: To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . With the ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser is attached to the flask, and the mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is needed for best yields and highest octane numbers on the product. While it is cooking, the mixture is quite red and messy looking from the red phosphorus floating around in it.When one day of boiling under reflux is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it is diluted with an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get out all the red phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution should look a golden color. A red color may indicate that all the red phosphorus is not yet out. If so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch. If filtering does not remove the red color, there may be iodine floating around the solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.The next step in processing the batch is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and added to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell or use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now obtained, the next step you can do is to form the crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls
@FBI
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
word
but you gotta make sure everything is super sanitary
and also some of these things you need extra money for like the metal basket and thermometer
Yeah one way to make some money back is to sell it online
 

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