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Guide How to choose your haircut [For men]

Aryy

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Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
1780065589748.webp
1780065651505.webp
1780065750433.webp
1780066087437.webp

1780066087474.webp

1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
1780067682581.webp

3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


1780069403712.webp


Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
1780168710820.webp

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
1780176196820.webp


1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.


Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length




3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.



Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.


4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff



5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.


Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance


Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.


Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness





Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control






Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.







Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well



Cowlicks

1780207915685.webp

1780208014955.webp

Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat





front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.




Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature







Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller





Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut





Mass tag


 
Last edited by a moderator:
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Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
boi fix the formatting immediately
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
dnr bc for men but this seems very thorough! good job
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
Peak i like how a girl made this for men
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
thats incredibly detailed 😮
how long did it take you?
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
i’ll keep in mind next time i get my hair cut
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
I don't know if I may need this , cuz I'm growing my hair so long.

But the guide itself is amazing, mirin
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
I got a modcut a similar one to Jordan Barretts but I am planning to Go for Dreadlocks After I finished gymmaxxin
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
Good guide
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos

6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape

Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line
Lower density

Thin tight line
Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible:
lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely:
high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast

-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines

Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you

1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density​


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles​

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts​

Curtains​

Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Compresses facial length.​

French Crop​

Fringe shortens the face visually.
Creates horizontal emphasis.​

Caesar Cut​

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.​

Medium Flow​

Creates side volume.
Makes the face appear wider.​

Bro Flow​

Increases lateral expansion.

Avoid​

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks​

Increases vertical length

3. Round Face​

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts​

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux​

All increases vertical length​

Textured Crop​

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure​

Side Part​

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.


Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face​

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.​

Best Haircuts​

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff​

5. Triangle Face​

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow​

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually​

Textured Fring​

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid​

Skin Fades​

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face​

We need to increase forehead width/vertical​

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow​

Increases forehead width​

Side Part​

Adds assyemtry​

Textured Layers​

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid​

Tigh haircuts​

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face​

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts​

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar​

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance​

Medium Flow​

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid​

Pompadours, Quiffs​

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.​

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.​

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness


Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons​

bulky
wide
difficult to control



Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness​

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
good thread
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.

Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length


3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.

Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff

5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness



Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control




Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag

Did not read long hair is law
 
dnr, let it grow, never cut
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.

Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length


3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.

Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff

5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness



Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control




Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
Yeah haha nice try but I've got my hair figured out 🤫😎
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.

Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length


3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.

Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff

5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness



Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control




Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
holy dnr, mirin efforts tho
 
I have small eyes so I went with long lion mane hair, is this the correct choice?
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.

Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length


3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.

Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.

4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff

5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.

Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance

Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.

Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness



Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control




Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.





Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat



front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.


Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature





Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller



Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut



Mass tag
molecule for molecule
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.


Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length




3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.



Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.


4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff



5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.


Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance


Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.


Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness





Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control






Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.







Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat





front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.




Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature







Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller





Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut





Mass tag


Awesome man
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.


Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length




3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.



Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.


4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff



5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.


Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance


Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.


Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness





Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control






Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.







Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat





front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.




Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature







Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller





Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut





Mass tag


just go bald theory
 
Factors affecting selection of haircuts

1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size

6.5 Facial thirds size

1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape

Measurements-
View attachment 360954 View attachment 360955 View attachment 360956 View attachment 360958
View attachment 360957
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6

2. Rectangle face shape

Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7

3. Round face shape

Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15

4
. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1

5. Triangle face shape

Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable

6. Diamond face shape

Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7

7. Heart face shape

Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6

2. Hair types
View attachment 360961
3. Hair density

1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density


View attachment 360981

Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.

Wide and visible line = Lower density

Thin tight line= Higher density

Push hair backward with your hand.

If scalp becomes visible= lower density

If hair still covers scalp densely= high density


Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself

4. Constrast/Colour

High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines


Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness

5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.

East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.

East Asian hair grows the fastest

European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.

East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.

African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage

African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
View attachment 361617

Northern European (Nordid)​

Common tendencies:
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors


Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:

Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast


Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture

Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:


Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility


Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:

high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity


Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture


Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:

Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily


Central Asian
Common tendencies:


Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation


African
Common tendencies:

Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume


6. Other failos

6.1 Ear protussiveness


Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.

6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)

1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)


You need to pull attention outward

2. High esr (Wide set eyes)

You need to pull attention inward

6.3 Cranial width

1. Wide Cranial Width

You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High

2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width

6.4 Facial feature size

Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.​

Eye Size​

Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.

Large Eyes

Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.

Nose Size​

Larger Nose

Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards

Smaller Nose

Pretty good, requires no compensation

Lip Size​

Large lips

Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.

Small Lips

Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.

6.5 Facial thirds size
View attachment 361697

1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:

Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline

Reduce perceived forehead height

Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face

b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually

2. Mid face
a) Long mid face

Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly

reduce upper third height
increase width
b) Short mid face
Stretch the face vertically.

3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.

a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.

b)Long lower third

Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis


Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)

Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you


1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)

Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.

2. Hair Traits & Phenotype

Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it

3. Compensation based on features

Modify the haircut based on failos.

4. Hair density

If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density


Haircuts according to face shape

1. Oval Face

Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles

Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.

2. Rectangle

Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.

Caesar Cut

Lowers the visual starting point of the face.


Avoid

Quiffs, Pompadours, Faux Hawks

Increases vertical length




3. Round Face

Create height and angularity.

Best Haircuts

Quiff vs Pompadour vs Faux

All increases vertical length

Textured Crop

Adds texture and structure creating more angular contoure

Side Part

causes asymmetry, hence reducing circular appearance.



Avoid

Heavy Curtains, Wide Flow

Add width.
Bowl Cuts
Emphasize roundness.


4. Square Face

Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.

Best Haircuts

Textured Crop vs Side Part vs Crew Cut vs Ivy League vs Quiff



5. Triangle Face

Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Medium Flow, Side Part, Bro Flow

Expands the temple area, hence increasing forehead width visually

Textured Fring

Creates mores upper face visual weight.


Avoid

Skin Fades

As they narrow the upper face further.

6. Diamond Face

We need to increase forehead width/vertical

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Fringe, Medium Flow

Increases forehead width

Side Part

Adds assyemtry

Textured Layers

Soften cheekbone dominance


Avoid

Tigh haircuts

Make cheekbones appear even wider.

7. Heart Face

Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance

Best Haircuts

Curtains, Textured Fringe, French Crop, Caesar

Cover part of the forehead, reducing the forehead dominance

Medium Flow

Softens the transition from forehead to jaw.


Avoid

Pompadours, Quiffs

Increases forehead size visually.

Hair Traits & Phenotype

Hair texture

Straight Hair

Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition

Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best

Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.

Wavy Hair

Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement

Wavy hair is often considered the most versatile texture.

Curtains, Bro Flow ,Layered Styles ,Textured Crops,work good
its good for increasing width and softness





Curly Hair

easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces

cons

bulky
wide
difficult to control






Coily Hair



Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage

strongest texture for reshaping perceived proportions.







Strand Thickness

Fine Hair

Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well

Thick Hair

Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well


Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it

Crown cowlick



Slick Backs

cons

Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.

what you can do

Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.

Middle parts
cons

One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically

With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part

Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks

Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat





front cowlick

fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.

what to do:

Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths

Avoid exposed forehead styles

(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.

Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.




Compensation based on features

Need More Vertical Height

Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead

Need Less Height

Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage

Need More Width

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume

Need Less Width

Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis

Need More Angularity

Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe

Need More Softness

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe

Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area

Need Less Eye Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point

Need More Upper-Face Emphasis

Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead

Need More Lower-Face Emphasis

Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow

Need Another Focal Point

Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow

works for any dominant feature







Hair density

Low Density Hair

French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe

Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density

Avoid

Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles

Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller





Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit

High Density Hair

Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop

As these have volume and shape

How to choose your haircut from this guide?

since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined

Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape

Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture

, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird

Step 3: Think of hair density

ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair

Step 4: Check for cowlicks

Step 5: Consider Phenotype

Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno

Step 6: Failos

example:

someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)

Step 1: Face Shape

Oval faces suit almost everything.

Step 2: Hair Texture

The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles

Step 3: Hair Density

Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow

Step 4: Cowlicks

nothing needed

Step 5: Phenotype

European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.

Step 6: failo

Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe

Avoid things thats show forehead

Overlaps

Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut





Mass tag


Poor ary spent 10h on this
 
How do I take the measurements? What about my hair, which sometimes turns straight, then wavy, and sometimes curly?
 
measuring tape

hows this possible

are different parts straigt, wavy or curly then thats possible ig or u just have wavy hair
alr
straight often after shampoo after but as day pass it turns into wavy then curly
 

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