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Factors affecting selection of haircuts
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size
1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape
Measurements-
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6
2. Rectangle face shape
Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7
3. Round face shape
Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15
4. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1
5. Triangle face shape
Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable
6. Diamond face shape
Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7
7. Heart face shape
Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6
2. Hair types
3. Hair density
1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density
4. Constrast/Colour
High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines
Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness
5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
East asian
European
African
1. Face shape
2. Hair type
3. Hair density
4. Constrast and colouring
5. Phenotype and race
6. Other failos
6.1Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
6.3 Cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
6.5 Facial thirds size
1. Face shape
1.1 Determine your face shape
Measurements-
1. Oval face shape
Length is greater than width
Forehead is greater than jaw
jaw is rounded rather than sharp
Typical length to width ratio
1:41-1;6
2. Rectangle face shape
Length is one of the top 2 largest measurements
Forehead and cheekbones are similar in size
Jawline is close-ish to forehead and cheeks
Typical length to width ratio
1:6-1:7
3. Round face shape
Length and cheeks are similar but larger than forehead or jawline.
Jaw and forehead are similar.
Angle of the jaw is soft and much less defined
Typical length to width ratio
1:01;1.15
4. Square face shape
Forehead is similar to cheekbones
Length is similar to jaw
Angle of jaw is sharp rather than rounded
Typical length to width ratio
1;01-1.3;1
5. Triangle face shape
Jawline greater than the cheekbones.
Cheeks similar or larger than the forehead.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
variable
6. Diamond face shape
Length is the largest measurement.
Then from largest to smallest, in descending order:
Forehead, cheeks and smallest is jawline. The chin is more pointed.
Typical length to width ratio
1.4-1.7
7. Heart face shape
Forehead is the largest measurement.
Cheeks are second largest.
Jawline is smallest measurement. The chin is more pointed.
Omit the face length measurement.
Typical length to width ratio
1.2-1.6
2. Hair types
3. Hair density
1. Low density
2. Medium density
3. High density
Make a clean part
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.
Wide and visible line = Lower density
Thin tight line= Higher density
Push hair backward with your hand.
If scalp becomes visible= lower density
If hair still covers scalp densely= high density
Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself
Then look at the width of the visible scalp line.
Wide and visible line = Lower density
Thin tight line= Higher density
Push hair backward with your hand.
If scalp becomes visible= lower density
If hair still covers scalp densely= high density
Usually you can tell easily by the thickness of your hair itself
4. Constrast/Colour
High constrast
-usually sharper cuts suit better, with clearer outlines
Low constrast
more volume, less edge harshness
5. Phenotype
How can phenotype affect haircuts?
Phenotype can influence haircut choices because different populations often have differences in hair texture, density, strand thickness, growth patterns. Certain hairstyle also fits a specific archetype different races have.
East asian
A specific variant of a gene, called 370A, is found almost exclusively in East Asian populations. It’s strongly associated with the characteristically thick, straight hair shafts common in people of East Asian descent
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.
East Asian hair grows the fastest
.
East Asian hair, has more cuticle layers and wider cuticle cells than European hair.
East Asian hair grows the fastest
European
In European populations, a gene called trichohyalin (TCHH) plays a measurable role in whether hair grows straight or wavy.
East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.
East Asian scalps tend to have fewer hairs per square centimeter than European scalps, but the individual strands are thicker, so the hair still appears full. European hair is typically the densest by follicle count.
African
African-textured hair, by contrast, has a more irregular structure along its length. Each twist in a coiled strand creates a point of mechanical stress where the hair is thinner and more vulnerable to breakage
African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
African hair grows the slowest, with research showing a gap of roughly 5 centimeters per year between African and East Asian hair
Northern European (Nordid)
Common tendencies:
Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:
Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:
Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:
Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:
Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:
Central Asian
Common tendencies:
African
Common tendencies:
6. Other failos
6.1 Ear protussiveness
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)
You need to pull attention outward
2. High esr (Wide set eyes)
You need to pull attention inward
6.3 Cranial width
1. Wide Cranial Width
You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High
2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.
medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer facial contrast
More frequency of lighter hair colors
Mediterranean (Mediterranid)
Common tendencies:
Dark pigmentation
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast
high density
Medium strand thickness
Straight to wavy texture
Moderate contrast
Iranid/Arabid
Common tendencies:
High density
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture
Medium-to-thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
High facial contrast
Strong volume retention
Full appearance
Visible texture
Armenoid / Dinarid
Common tendencies:
Very dense growth
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility
Thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Wavy texture common
High contrast
Significant volume
Strong texture visibility
Indid (South asian)
Common tendencies:
high density
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity
thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Straight to wavy texture
Long growth cycles
Full appearance
Good volume potential
Strong growth capacity
Southeast Asian
Common tendencies:
Straight to slightly wavy texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture
Medium/thick strands
Dark pigmentation
Moderate/high density
Holds shape well
Moderate natural volume
Usually smooth texture
Sindid (East asian)
Common tendencies:
Very straight texture
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily
Thick strands
Dense growth
Strong shape retention
Dark pigmentation
Holds geometric shapes easily
Central Asian
Common tendencies:
Straight
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation
Medium / thick strands
Moderate / high density
Dark pigmentation
African
Common tendencies:
Curly to coily texture
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume
High visual density
Strong shrinkage
Coarser texture
significant volume
6. Other failos
6.1 Ear protussiveness
Protruding ears become noticeable when there is empty space around them.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.
goal is to create volume around the ears.
Hair acts as a visual transition
The more side volume present, the less isolated the ears appear.
6.2 ESR (Eye seperation Ratio)
1. Low esr (Close-set eyes)
You need to pull attention outward
2. High esr (Wide set eyes)
You need to pull attention inward
6.3 Cranial width
1. Wide Cranial Width
You need to increase verticle height of the cranium (visually)
High
2. Narrow Cranial Width
The skull appears narrow from the front
You need to visually laterally expand the cranial width
6.4 Facial feature size
Hair can reinforce a focal point, balance a focal point, distract from a focal point, or create a new focal point.
but hairstyle should not exceed the visual weight of the face.
General rule is to add volume away from that feature.
Eye Size
Small Eyes
Increase more attention towards orbital area
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.
styles can create lines that point inward toward the eyes.
Large Eyes
Large eyes already attract attention, they dont need extra attention. Its a good focal point.
Nose Size
Larger Nose
Reduce central dominance, and draw attention outwards
Smaller Nose
Pretty good, requires no compensation
Lip Size
Large lips
Reduce visual attention on the mouth area by:
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.
a) creating height above the eyes.
Make the mouth a smaller percentage of the overall composition.
b) Texture also creates visual complexity.
Attention gets distributed across the hairstyle rather than concentrated on the lips.
Introduce asymmetry.
Small Lips
Increase softness and facial harmony.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.
Facial framing reduces focus on the mouth.
Add movement and softness
Prevent the mouth area from looking visually sparse.
Pulls attention upward toward the eyes.
6.5 Facial thirds size
1. Upper third
a) Long upper third:
Tall forehead
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline
Reduce perceived forehead height
Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face
Higher hairline
Large distance from brows to hairline
Reduce perceived forehead height
Just cover the forehead with bangs, which lower the visual starting point of the face
b)Short upper third
Small forehead
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually
Low hairline
Increase perceived forehead height.
Just add more volume to the top to lengthen the upper third visually
2. Mid face
a) Long mid face
Large distance between eyes and nose
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly
reduce upper third height
increase width
Face appears vertically stretched
hair cannot shorten the midface directly
reduce upper third height
increase width
Stretch the face vertically.
3. Lower third
The lower third extends from the base of the nose to the chin.
Haircuts cannot directly alter this region, so compensation relies on balancing the overall face.
a) Short lower third
Increase perceived facial length.
b)Long lower third
Reduce perceived facial length.
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis
reduce forehead exposure
increase width
create horizontal emphasis
Recommeding hairstyles (Finally)
Now that you've reailzed your failos you can choose which hairtsyles would suit you
1. Face Shape (Primary Factor)
Determine which hairstyles are naturally compatible.
2. Hair Traits & Phenotype
Determine whether your hair can actually achieve that style, and maintain it
3. Compensation based on features
Modify the haircut based on failos.
4. Hair density
If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density
4. Hair density
If it looks full enough, or if you need to hide low density
Haircuts according to face shape
1. Oval Face
Oval Faces Suit Most Hairstyles
Oval faces are already close to the proportions most hairstyles are trying to create.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.
Most face shapes compensation aims to make other face shapes appear more oval.
2. Rectangle
Reduce perceived length and increase perceived width.
Best Haircuts
Curtains, Medium Flow, Bro Flow, French Crop
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Adds width at the sides.
Reduces forehead exposure.
Avoid
3. Round Face
Create height and angularity.
Best Haircuts
Avoid
4. Square Face
Maintain balance, since its already quite a masculine structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.
Strong jawlines already provide structure.
Best Haircuts
5. Triangle Face
Since the jaw is wider than forehead, lower end dominates hence we will need to increase upper face width
Best Haircuts
Avoid
Skin Fades
As they narrow the upper face further.
6. Diamond Face
We need to increase forehead width/vertical
Best Haircuts
Avoid
Tigh haircuts
Make cheekbones appear even wider.
7. Heart Face
Reduce forehead dominance, and add more lower third dominance
Best Haircuts
Avoid
Pompadours, Quiffs
Increases forehead size visually.
Hair Traits & Phenotype
Hair texture
Straight Hair
Hair falls downward
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition
Low natural volume
Highest shine
Strongest outline definition
Side Parts, Slick Backs,Two Blocks, Comma Hair, Structured Fringes work best
Curtains,flow styles will appear flat as straight hair naturally goes downward
as straight hair naturally collapses toward gravity.
Wavy Hair
Natural bends
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement
Moderate volume
Moderate texture
Natural movement
Curly Hair
easily gives ,width, volume, density
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces
and good for hiding asymmetries
can help with weaker faces
Coily Hair
Tight curl pattern
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage
Maximum volume potential
Strong shrinkage
Strand Thickness
Fine Hair
Each strand is physically thin, which gives more movement but poor shape retention ie, cant hold a proper shape well
Thick Hair
Each strand is physically large, which gives more volume and rigidity ie resists movement and can hold shape well
Cowlicks
Working with a cowlick is better than hiding it
Crown cowlick
Slick Backs
cons
Crown may split open.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.
Hair may separate into two directions.
Visible scalp can appear at the whorl.
what you can do
Leave extra length at the crown.
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.
Middle parts
cons
One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically
With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part
Add texture
Follow the natural swirl direction when blow drying.
Middle parts
cons
One side may have more volume.
Part may drift off-center.
Crown may split unexpectedly.
Hair may refuse to fall symmetrically
With crown cowils 70/30 part is easier than normal middle part
Hairstyles that usually work well with Crown Cowlicks
Textured Crop, Crew Cut , Ivy League , Curtains, Bro Flow , Medium Flow, Layered Styles ,Textured Side Part
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat
The biggest mistake is trying to force the crown flat
front cowlick
fringes
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.
Fringe splits in the middle,
Fringe separates to one side.
Hair lifts upward.
Difficult to keep bangs laying flat.
what to do:
Textured Fringe, Curtains, Layered Fringe, Slightly longer fringe lengths
Avoid exposed forehead styles
(where forehead is visible)
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.
Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.
Hairline appears uneven.
One section stands higher than the rest.
Asymmetrical front profile.
Use texture instead of forcing uniformity.
Leave slightly more length in the cowlick area.
Compensation based on features
Need More Vertical Height
Quiff, Pompadour , Brush Up, Faux Hawk , High Volume Side Part, High Textured Top, styles with an
sposed forehead
sposed forehead
Need Less Height
Curtains, French Crop , Caesar ,Textured Fringe ,Heavy Fringe , Middle Part, hairsyles with forehead coverage
Need More Width
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Middle Part, Medium-Length Side Part, aka styles with more side volume
Need Less Width
Quiff, Pompadour, Faux Hawk, Tight Side Part, Undercut, styles with more vertical emphasis
Need More Angularity
Textured Crop, Quiff, side Part, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Structured Fringe
Need More Softness
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Layered Styles, Curtained Fringe
Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area
Need More Eye Emphasis
Curtains, Comma Hair, Textured Fringe, Middle Part,
hair that can point toward the orbital area
Need Less Eye Emphasis
Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back,
Something that creates another focal point
Something that creates another focal point
Need More Upper-Face Emphasis
Quiff, Pompadour, Brush Up, Faux Hawk
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead
Volume above eyes
Exposed forehead
Need More Lower-Face Emphasis
Curtains
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow
French Crop
Caesar
Medium Flow
Need Another Focal Point
Quiff, Pompadour, Textured Crop, Side Part, Curtains, Bro Flow
works for any dominant feature
works for any dominant feature
Hair density
Low Density Hair
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Ivy League, Crew Cut, Short Side Part, Short Textured Fringe
Reduces scalp exposure, Create texture that disguises density
Avoid
Very long curtains, slick backs, Wet look hairstyles, Extremely long flow styles
Low density hair often appears thinner as length increases because strands separate and expose more scalp, growing more hair itself wont make it look fuller
Medium Density Hair is ideal and every haircut would suit
High Density Hair
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Quiff, Pompadour, Slick Back, Two Block, Layered Styles, Textured Crop
As these have volume and shape
As these have volume and shape
How to choose your haircut from this guide?
since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined
since this is a larger guide, some people might have some trouble understanding how to work with all the factors combined
Step 1: Determine Your Face Shape
Step 2: Filter By Hair Texture
, ie if its easy to maintain without styling or looking too weird
Step 3: Think of hair density
ie, you might need to hide your lower density hair
Step 4: Check for cowlicks
Step 5: Consider Phenotype
Your hair traits can vary, usually it doesnt. But also consider common archetypes in your pheno
Step 6: Failos
example:
someone with:
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)
Face Shape: Oval
Phenotype: European
Hair Density: Low
Hair Texture: Wavy
cowlicks: none
Failo: Wide Upper Third (large forehead)
Step 1: Face Shape
Oval faces suit almost everything.
Step 2: Hair Texture
The hair is wavy.
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles
Curtains, Bro Flow, Medium Flow, Textured Crop, Layered Styles
Step 3: Hair Density
Density is low, so we need to hide it
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow
French Crop, Caesar, Textured Crop, Short Curtains, Short Side Part
Remove:
Bro flow
Step 4: Cowlicks
nothing needed
Step 5: Phenotype
European phenotype often has:
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.
wavy texture
Moderate density
Softer contrast
This does not eliminate any hairstyles.
Step 6: failo
Long Upper Third (Large Forehead)
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe
Avoid things thats show forehead
Curtains, French Crop, Caesar, Textured Fringe
Avoid things thats show forehead
Overlaps
Textured French Crop,Textured Curtains, Caesar Cut
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