COMPLETE SKIN OPTIMISATION GUIDE
THE ACTUAL GOAL
Having clear skin is not synonymous with having "no" acne. The actual goal is to have clear complexion, even tone, minimal redness, hydration, good texture and healthy appearance. As the skin can change rapidly in the 14-16 age bracket due to hormonal fluctuations, using ten actives to try and target every possible problem is not advisable
THE SKIN BARRIER
The skin barrier is the holy grail of good complexion, and it is paramount that it is not compromised. If you have issues with redness, dehydration, irritation and acne flares, chances are your skin barrier is damaged, and using excessive topical treatments only further complicates the issue. The skin barrier needs a gentle cleanser, good moisturiser and SPF 50+ as a foundation. Individual issues can be addressed on top of this
CLEANSING
You must remove sunscreen, oil and other residues at the end of the day. Using a gentle cleanser should be sufficient as far as morning cleansing is concerned. The skin should not feel excessively tight after cleansing, as it is a sign of barrier dysfunction.
If you have dry or sensitive skin, you may not need to cleanse in the morning at all. The point is to remove the excess oil, not strip the skin of its natural protective layer
MOISTURISER
Moisturising is an important step as a good moisturiser will allow the rest of your skincare to perform better while delivering hydration and calming effects. It is critical to have a good barrier, so look for products with ceramides, glycerin, panthenol and other skin-repairing ingredients.
just because you have oily skin does not mean that you should not moisturise. Oily skin is a symptom, and dehydration is a cause, so using excessive cleansers and drying moisturisers will only exacerbate the issue
SPF
Sun protection is the most underrated aspect of skincare. UV exposure can lead to pigmentation, redness, collagen loss and accelerated skin ageing, not to mention making acne scars more prominent.
Wearing a good broad spectrum SPF 50+ is crucial not just in Australia but throughout the year. If you are outside for an extended period, reapplication may be required, so do not assume that one application in the morning will keep you protected for the entirety of the day
ACNE
It is critical to treat different types of acne in different ways, rather than using a combination of actives indiscriminately. The congestion, blackheads and inflammatory pimples are not one issue, so treating them as such will get you better results.
Salicylic acid is a good way to start if you have congestion as it targets the buildup within the follicles, and benzoyl peroxide is an anti-inflammatory acne treatment. If your acne is severe or persistent, talking to your dermatologist is a better option than experimenting with random actives
RETINOIDS
Retinoids are some of the most potent treatments for acne-prone skin, as well as improving the appearance of the skin over time. Adapalene is a popular over-the-counter retinoid for treating acne, but it can irritate the skin if applied too frequently.
It is better to start with a smaller amount and allow your skin to tolerate it rather than burn it. There is nothing wrong with slow and steady progress, especially when it comes to the sensitive skin during the teenage years
REDNESS AND PIGMENTATION
Redness and post-acne pigmentation are two separate issues that take a long time to resolve. Trying to treat redness by irritating it further is not advisable, as it only prolongs the healing process. The same goes for any other aggressive methods, such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and so on
Sunscreen plays an essential role in resolving pigmentation, so it is better to wear it consistently rather than trying to address the darkness on your skin separately. Azelaic acid and niacinamide are two other treatments worth considering depending on your skin's tolerance and the cause of your skin concern
NIACINAMIDE
Niacinamide is an excellent addition to your routine if you want to strengthen your skin barrier while reducing redness, porosity and oiliness. Using a high concentration is not necessary, as it can actually damage your skin instead of improving it
If you notice that your skin is inflamed or burning after a certain product, it is better to reduce the frequency or remove it from your routine rather than add another serum to your nightly ritual
AZELAIC ACID
Azelaic acid is an underrated treatment that can be used for acne, pigmentation and redness. It is a good choice for most people who are concerned not with pimples themselves, but with the aftermath they leave behind
It is by no means a miracle worker, but azelaic acid has proven efficacy in gradually reducing redness and pigmentation while also targeting mild breakouts. It is all about getting consistent results rather than chasing fast-acting treatments
SKIN TEXTURE
Poreless skin is not normal, as most of us have to deal with dilated pores of some degree or another. People tend to overestimate the appearance of their pores due to the camera megapixels and the editing software, so it is best to get realistic about the skin you have and accept it
The best way to gradually reduce the appearance of pores is to maintain a good skin barrier, reduce congestion and treat acne, as these issues only make the pores look bigger. It is more about being consistent rather than pursuing miracle treatments
THE NOSE
Small bumps on the nose that are often erroneously referred to as blackheads are actually sebaceous filaments, which is a normal part of the skin physiology everyone has. Unfortunately, they cannot be fully removed for good
They can be minimised with a good cleanser and salicylic acid, but it is not advisable to pop them as it causes unnecessary trauma to the skin, leading to more severe issues in the long run
LIPS
Lips are a pretty important part of one's appearance, so it is better to care for them properly. Constant licking, biting and picking at the skin can wreak havoc on the delicate lip tissue, so it is best to avoid these habits
Using an occlusive lip balm is a good idea, especially at night, as it will hydrate the skin without irritating it. You do not need to perform some intensive exfoliating ritual on your lips, as this will only hurt them in the long run
UNDER EYES
As far as genetics and anatomy are concerned, dark circles are pretty much a given for most people, so skincare can only do so much. Lack of sleep makes the problem worse, which is yet another reason to actually get some rest at night
The same goes for trying to massage your under-eye area aggressively, as it only causes more damage. If allergies or some other condition are the cause of your dark circles, focusing on the root issue is a better priority than experimenting with various serums and eye creams
DIET
There is no magic food that will give you clear skin, but a healthy and balanced diet full of proteins, healthy fats, fruits and vegetables is essential. A good amount of water and the right amount of sleep are also important parts of the equation
If you eat healthy food and get enough rest, your skin will reward you. Constantly trying to detox your body by restricting various foods is counter-productive and not necessary at all, unless you have a documented intolerance or allergy
HYDRATION
Drinking excessive amounts of water is not going to make you beautiful, but staying properly hydrated is important for your skin and general wellbeing. It is better to drink water when you are thirsty and stop when you are full, rather than force yourself to consume copious amounts every day
A healthy and balanced diet, good sleep and good skincare will do wonders, so there is no point in trying to over-hydrate yourself for a perceived ``detox''
SWEAT AND HYGIENE
Sweat itself is not bad for the skin, but leaving it on your face for too long after a workout can cause irritation. Washing your face, taking a shower, changing your pillowcases, laundering your towels, minimise the risk of breakouts as much as possible. As far as skincare is concerned, basic hygiene is much more important than any other measures
SLEEP
Sleep is actually the most underrated aspect of this entire routine. At the age of 14-16, you need it for your overall wellbeing and proper physical development, and you should not sacrifice it for the sake of your skin. It makes absolutely no sense to pull all-nighters and rely on ``cleansing toners'' to detox your body.
Adequate amounts of good sleep should be prioritised over any skincare product or routine
WHAT NOT TO DO
Lemon juice, baking soda, toothpaste and other harsh treatments are a definite no-no for your skin. You should not aggressively scrub your pimples or try and ``cut out'' the pimple itself, as it will only cause irritation and scarring. Similarly, you should not pop pimples, particularly on your face, as it leads to a myriad of other issues down the road
It is also unadvisable to introduce multiple actives at once, as you will not be able to determine what product is causing your subsequent breakout. Always introduce products one at a time so that you can monitor the effects they have on your skin
THE ACTUAL ENDGAME
The most effective, albeit boring, skincare regimen will always be the foundation. Keeping the skin barrier intact, cleansing and moisturising twice a day, using SPF 50+ and treating acne appropriately will get you much further than any aggressive routine with ten active ingredients.
~ ced
THE ACTUAL GOAL
Having clear skin is not synonymous with having "no" acne. The actual goal is to have clear complexion, even tone, minimal redness, hydration, good texture and healthy appearance. As the skin can change rapidly in the 14-16 age bracket due to hormonal fluctuations, using ten actives to try and target every possible problem is not advisable
THE SKIN BARRIER
The skin barrier is the holy grail of good complexion, and it is paramount that it is not compromised. If you have issues with redness, dehydration, irritation and acne flares, chances are your skin barrier is damaged, and using excessive topical treatments only further complicates the issue. The skin barrier needs a gentle cleanser, good moisturiser and SPF 50+ as a foundation. Individual issues can be addressed on top of this
CLEANSING
You must remove sunscreen, oil and other residues at the end of the day. Using a gentle cleanser should be sufficient as far as morning cleansing is concerned. The skin should not feel excessively tight after cleansing, as it is a sign of barrier dysfunction.
If you have dry or sensitive skin, you may not need to cleanse in the morning at all. The point is to remove the excess oil, not strip the skin of its natural protective layer
MOISTURISER
Moisturising is an important step as a good moisturiser will allow the rest of your skincare to perform better while delivering hydration and calming effects. It is critical to have a good barrier, so look for products with ceramides, glycerin, panthenol and other skin-repairing ingredients.
just because you have oily skin does not mean that you should not moisturise. Oily skin is a symptom, and dehydration is a cause, so using excessive cleansers and drying moisturisers will only exacerbate the issue
SPF
Sun protection is the most underrated aspect of skincare. UV exposure can lead to pigmentation, redness, collagen loss and accelerated skin ageing, not to mention making acne scars more prominent.
Wearing a good broad spectrum SPF 50+ is crucial not just in Australia but throughout the year. If you are outside for an extended period, reapplication may be required, so do not assume that one application in the morning will keep you protected for the entirety of the day
ACNE
It is critical to treat different types of acne in different ways, rather than using a combination of actives indiscriminately. The congestion, blackheads and inflammatory pimples are not one issue, so treating them as such will get you better results.
Salicylic acid is a good way to start if you have congestion as it targets the buildup within the follicles, and benzoyl peroxide is an anti-inflammatory acne treatment. If your acne is severe or persistent, talking to your dermatologist is a better option than experimenting with random actives
RETINOIDS
Retinoids are some of the most potent treatments for acne-prone skin, as well as improving the appearance of the skin over time. Adapalene is a popular over-the-counter retinoid for treating acne, but it can irritate the skin if applied too frequently.
It is better to start with a smaller amount and allow your skin to tolerate it rather than burn it. There is nothing wrong with slow and steady progress, especially when it comes to the sensitive skin during the teenage years
REDNESS AND PIGMENTATION
Redness and post-acne pigmentation are two separate issues that take a long time to resolve. Trying to treat redness by irritating it further is not advisable, as it only prolongs the healing process. The same goes for any other aggressive methods, such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and so on
Sunscreen plays an essential role in resolving pigmentation, so it is better to wear it consistently rather than trying to address the darkness on your skin separately. Azelaic acid and niacinamide are two other treatments worth considering depending on your skin's tolerance and the cause of your skin concern
NIACINAMIDE
Niacinamide is an excellent addition to your routine if you want to strengthen your skin barrier while reducing redness, porosity and oiliness. Using a high concentration is not necessary, as it can actually damage your skin instead of improving it
If you notice that your skin is inflamed or burning after a certain product, it is better to reduce the frequency or remove it from your routine rather than add another serum to your nightly ritual
AZELAIC ACID
Azelaic acid is an underrated treatment that can be used for acne, pigmentation and redness. It is a good choice for most people who are concerned not with pimples themselves, but with the aftermath they leave behind
It is by no means a miracle worker, but azelaic acid has proven efficacy in gradually reducing redness and pigmentation while also targeting mild breakouts. It is all about getting consistent results rather than chasing fast-acting treatments
SKIN TEXTURE
Poreless skin is not normal, as most of us have to deal with dilated pores of some degree or another. People tend to overestimate the appearance of their pores due to the camera megapixels and the editing software, so it is best to get realistic about the skin you have and accept it
The best way to gradually reduce the appearance of pores is to maintain a good skin barrier, reduce congestion and treat acne, as these issues only make the pores look bigger. It is more about being consistent rather than pursuing miracle treatments
THE NOSE
Small bumps on the nose that are often erroneously referred to as blackheads are actually sebaceous filaments, which is a normal part of the skin physiology everyone has. Unfortunately, they cannot be fully removed for good
They can be minimised with a good cleanser and salicylic acid, but it is not advisable to pop them as it causes unnecessary trauma to the skin, leading to more severe issues in the long run
LIPS
Lips are a pretty important part of one's appearance, so it is better to care for them properly. Constant licking, biting and picking at the skin can wreak havoc on the delicate lip tissue, so it is best to avoid these habits
Using an occlusive lip balm is a good idea, especially at night, as it will hydrate the skin without irritating it. You do not need to perform some intensive exfoliating ritual on your lips, as this will only hurt them in the long run
UNDER EYES
As far as genetics and anatomy are concerned, dark circles are pretty much a given for most people, so skincare can only do so much. Lack of sleep makes the problem worse, which is yet another reason to actually get some rest at night
The same goes for trying to massage your under-eye area aggressively, as it only causes more damage. If allergies or some other condition are the cause of your dark circles, focusing on the root issue is a better priority than experimenting with various serums and eye creams
DIET
There is no magic food that will give you clear skin, but a healthy and balanced diet full of proteins, healthy fats, fruits and vegetables is essential. A good amount of water and the right amount of sleep are also important parts of the equation
If you eat healthy food and get enough rest, your skin will reward you. Constantly trying to detox your body by restricting various foods is counter-productive and not necessary at all, unless you have a documented intolerance or allergy
HYDRATION
Drinking excessive amounts of water is not going to make you beautiful, but staying properly hydrated is important for your skin and general wellbeing. It is better to drink water when you are thirsty and stop when you are full, rather than force yourself to consume copious amounts every day
A healthy and balanced diet, good sleep and good skincare will do wonders, so there is no point in trying to over-hydrate yourself for a perceived ``detox''
SWEAT AND HYGIENE
Sweat itself is not bad for the skin, but leaving it on your face for too long after a workout can cause irritation. Washing your face, taking a shower, changing your pillowcases, laundering your towels, minimise the risk of breakouts as much as possible. As far as skincare is concerned, basic hygiene is much more important than any other measures
SLEEP
Sleep is actually the most underrated aspect of this entire routine. At the age of 14-16, you need it for your overall wellbeing and proper physical development, and you should not sacrifice it for the sake of your skin. It makes absolutely no sense to pull all-nighters and rely on ``cleansing toners'' to detox your body.
Adequate amounts of good sleep should be prioritised over any skincare product or routine
WHAT NOT TO DO
Lemon juice, baking soda, toothpaste and other harsh treatments are a definite no-no for your skin. You should not aggressively scrub your pimples or try and ``cut out'' the pimple itself, as it will only cause irritation and scarring. Similarly, you should not pop pimples, particularly on your face, as it leads to a myriad of other issues down the road
It is also unadvisable to introduce multiple actives at once, as you will not be able to determine what product is causing your subsequent breakout. Always introduce products one at a time so that you can monitor the effects they have on your skin
THE ACTUAL ENDGAME
The most effective, albeit boring, skincare regimen will always be the foundation. Keeping the skin barrier intact, cleansing and moisturising twice a day, using SPF 50+ and treating acne appropriately will get you much further than any aggressive routine with ten active ingredients.
~ ced
